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Magusto at home: how to roast chestnuts in a clay chestnut roaster
Portugal's Magusto and St. Martin's Day on 11 November, explained: the legend of the cloak, água-pé and jeropiga, and how to roast chestnuts at home in a black clay chestnut roaster from Gondar, plus how to care for it.
In this article
By Tiago Reis, Ra-Ro co-founder · View profile
About a 6 minute read
There is one smell that, for me, holds the whole of autumn: chestnut shells cracking over the fire, a thread of smoke, coarse salt slowly toasting. It fascinates me that something so simple can gather a whole house around one pot. This year I want to do the Magusto at home properly, and I wrote this guide for anyone who wants the same.
The Magusto is the Portuguese folk celebration of roasted chestnuts, held mainly on St. Martin's Day, 11 November. Family and friends gather around the fire with chestnuts, água-pé and jeropiga. At home, the traditional way to roast them is in a clay chestnut roaster, such as the Gondar black pottery roaster made by César Teixeira.
What is the Magusto and when is it held?
The Magusto takes place on St. Martin's Day (Dia de São Martinho), 11 November, and it is really an excuse to light a fire, roast chestnuts and taste the new wine. By then the spiky husks have already fallen from the chestnut trees and the wine from the harvest is ready to try, so the feast fits the farming calendar almost effortlessly.
There is a curious explanation for the date. According to the Portuguese site Florestas.pt, the tradition probably began with the All Saints' Magusto on 1 November, especially in the north of the country. When Portugal adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1582, ten days were removed from October, and the 1 November Magusto is said to have shifted to 11 November. The old sayings put it better than I can: "No dia de São Martinho, pão, castanhas e vinho" (on St. Martin's Day, bread, chestnuts and wine) and "No dia de São Martinho, vai à adega e prova o vinho" (on St. Martin's Day, go to the cellar and taste the wine).
What is the legend of St. Martin?
The legend tells that Martin, a Roman soldier, met a freezing beggar during a storm and cut his cloak in half with his sword to share it with him. Soon after, the sky cleared and the sun warmed the land for about three days.
That is where the name "St. Martin's Summer" (Verão de São Martinho) comes from: the sunny, mild days that so often appear around 11 November. The man behind the story is Martin of Tours, born around 316 in Pannonia, today's Hungary, who left the army, became a monk and later bishop of Tours in France, and died in 397. It is hard to write this sentence without a lump in my throat: the most shared feast of our autumn is born from an act of sharing.
What do people drink on St. Martin's Day: água-pé or jeropiga?
On St. Martin's Day people drink both, and they are different drinks. Água-pé is a low alcohol drink made by adding water to the grape pomace left after winemaking. Jeropiga is the opposite in strength: Portugal's Directorate-General for Agriculture and Rural Development describes it as a sweet wine with a high alcohol content, because grape brandy is added to the must.
In my house there is always someone who drinks neither, and that is where another piece of black clay comes in: a chocolate pot on the stove, with hot chocolate for the youngest. I really love this, putting on the table objects born from the same pit and the same smoke.
How do you roast chestnuts in a clay chestnut roaster?
Roasting chestnuts in a clay roaster is simple: score the chestnuts, put them in the roaster over moderate heat, shake it now and then and season with coarse salt. The rest is patience and a good nose. This is how I do it at home, based on general, safe guidance I found in Portuguese cooking sources:
- Choose and rinse. Pick firm, heavy chestnuts with glossy shells. Rinse them and drain.
- Score. Cut the shell of each chestnut, horizontally or with a cross. It stops them bursting from the steam and makes peeling easier.
- Moisten and salt. Sprinkle them with a little water and season with coarse salt to taste. Some people add a sprig of rosemary.
- Heat slowly. Put the roaster over a low gas flame, a small charcoal burner or embers, and let the clay warm up gradually before raising the heat. It will not work on an induction hob.
- Shake. With the lid on, hold the roaster with an oven glove and shake it from time to time so the chestnuts turn and roast evenly.
- Peel them hot. When they are ready, wrap them in a kitchen towel for a few minutes and peel them while still hot, when the skin comes off much more easily.
There is no fixed time in clay: it depends on the heat, the size of the chestnuts and how many you put in. That is why I prefer to follow the signs rather than the clock.
How do you know when roasted chestnuts are done?
Chestnuts are done when the cut has opened, the shell is slightly charred in places and the flesh shows a deep yellow colour. If in doubt, take one out, peel it and taste: it should be tender inside, with nothing raw or floury. If it is still hard, put the lid back on and give it a few more minutes, shaking as you go.
Clay roaster, oven or frying pan: what is the difference?
The difference is in the heat and in the ritual. The oven and the frying pan are practical and predictable; the clay roaster asks for more attention, but gives the chestnuts the touch of fire and smoke I associate with the Magusto. The oven and pan times below come from recipes published by the Portuguese site nCultura.
| Method | Time | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Clay roaster (flame or embers) | Variable, guided by shell and flesh | Gentle, even heat, a taste of fire, the Magusto ritual |
| Oven (200 °C, with coarse salt) | 30 to 40 minutes | Even roast, little attention, no smoke |
| Covered frying pan | About 10 to 13 minutes | Fast and crisp, needs shaking and watching |
Why clay and not metal?
Clay heats up more slowly and holds the heat, so the chestnuts roast more gently and are less likely to burn on one side and stay raw on the other. Metal heats up very quickly, which is handy when you are in a hurry, but it means watching and shaking constantly.
With this roaster there is another reason, and it is the one that moves me. It is handmade in Gondar, in the municipality of Amarante (Minho), by César Teixeira and his son João, and fired by soenga: an open-air pit firing invented by local potters in the early 17th century, with flames reaching about 1000 °C and black smoke soaking into the clay. That is why Gondar black pottery is black: not paint, not glaze, but smoke trapped in the clay. You can get to know the potter on the César Teixeira producer page and see his other pieces in the César Teixeira collection.
How do you care for a black clay chestnut roaster?
Caring for a black clay roaster comes down to three things: heat it slowly, avoid thermal shock and let it dry well. The roaster comes in three parts, lid, body and base, and each deserves the same care.
- Before first use. Many people soak clay pieces in water for a few hours before using them for the first time, to help the clay cope with heat. Let it dry before it goes on the fire.
- No sudden temperature changes. Never put a hot roaster on a cold, wet stone, and never pour cold water on it while it is hot.
- Simple cleaning. Let it cool, remove the shells and wipe it with a brush or cloth. I avoid detergent, because clay is porous.
- Dry and store. Store it completely dry, somewhere airy. Between Magustos it also makes a lovely decorative piece in the kitchen.
Every roaster comes out of the pit with variations in tone that nobody fully controls. With use, the clay picks up marks from the fire, and I think that is what makes it ours.
Frequently asked questions
Why do you cut chestnuts before roasting them?
The cut lets out the steam that builds up inside the chestnut as it roasts. Without it, the chestnut can burst. A horizontal or cross cut also helps the shell and inner skin come away when you peel them.
Can I use a clay chestnut roaster on an induction hob?
No. Induction only heats pans with a magnetic metal base, and clay does not respond to that field. Use a low gas flame, a small charcoal burner or embers, and let the clay warm gradually before turning up the heat.
Do you have to salt roasted chestnuts?
It is not required, but coarse salt is part of the Portuguese tradition and brings out the flavour. Sprinkling the chestnuts with a little water helps the salt stick to the shells. Some people also add a sprig of rosemary.
Why is the Magusto on 11 November and not 1 November?
According to Florestas.pt, the tradition probably started with the All Saints' Magusto on 1 November. When Portugal adopted the Gregorian calendar in 1582, ten days were removed from October and the feast is said to have moved to 11 November.
Is the black clay of the roaster painted or glazed?
Neither. The colour comes from soenga, an open-air pit firing with flames of about 1000 °C in which black smoke soaks into the clay. That is why every piece from Gondar has a slightly different tone.
What is St. Martin's Summer?
It is the name given to the sunny, mild days that often appear around 11 November. The legend links them to Martin sharing his cloak with a beggar: the sky is said to have cleared and the sun warmed the land for about three days.
