By Tiago Reis, co-founder of Ra-Ro · View profile
About a 3 minute read

There is a smell that announces autumn on Portuguese streets: that of roasting chestnuts. This black clay roaster brings that tradition home - handmade in Gondar, in the Minho, by the same ancestral soenga firing that gives the clay its deep black.
What is a clay chestnut roaster?
It is a clay piece with holes in the base, designed to roast chestnuts over embers or an open fire. The clay spreads the heat gently and evenly, and the holes let the smoke give the chestnuts that unmistakable street flavour.
What is the soenga that gives the black colour?
The soenga is an open-air firing, in pits dug in the earth: the fire reaches around a thousand degrees and, at the end, the burning is smothered. Without oxygen, the smoke soaks into the clay, sets the dark tone and strengthens the piece.
Who keeps this craft alive today?
César Teixeira and his son João, in Gondar, are among the last guardians of this traditional pottery - the same ones who bring the region's celebrated black clay pieces to life.
Frequently asked questions
What is the black clay Chestnut Roaster?
A black clay piece with holes, handmade to roast chestnuts over embers or an open fire - the same tradition as street-roasted chestnuts, in an artisanal and long-lasting version.
Who makes it and where?
César Teixeira and his son João, in Gondar, Amarante, in the Minho - among the last guardians of black clay pottery.
What are the black clay and the soenga?
The clay is fired in the open air, in pits in the earth; the fire reaches around 1000 degrees and the smoke, without oxygen, sets the black tone and strengthens the piece.
How is it used?
It is placed over embers or an open fire; the chestnuts roast with the gentle heat of the clay and the touch of smoke through the holes. Out of season, it is also a beautiful decorative piece.
Why is it very rare?
Very few practitioners of the soenga remain, and each firing is different, so each piece shows unique variations.
How to care for the piece?
Handle with care, avoiding sudden changes in temperature; clean with a cloth. Before first use over fire, it is best to cure the piece slowly.

