Portuguese crochet: tradition, handmade pieces and how to care for them

By Tiago Reis, co-founder of Ra-Ro · View profile

About a 4 minute read

Almost everyone in Portugal has a crochet doily somewhere in their memory. On top of a chest of drawers, under a vase, in the sitting room that was only opened for visitors. For a long time I thought crochet stayed there, stuck in those houses. Then I saw what Alice Aranha does with a hook and a linen thread, and I realised I was wrong.

Crochet is a technique for making fabric or lace with a single hooked needle, pulling the yarn through one loop at a time. The name comes from the French crochet, little hook. In Portugal it has been part of home life for generations, from doilies to bedspreads and trousseau lace, and today some makers take it into designer pieces. At Ra-Ro, Portuguese crochet carries the name of Alice Aranha, from Caldas da Rainha in Estremadura, who makes earrings, scarves and gloves by hand, stitch by stitch.

What is crochet and where does it come from?

Crochet uses a single needle with a hook at the tip. Each stitch comes from pulling the yarn through a loop and, in most cases, only one loop stays active on the hook. Knitting usually uses two needles and keeps a whole row of stitches waiting. That is why crochet lends itself so well to flowers, rosettes and open lace: the piece can grow in any direction. There is a freedom in that which I really like.

The word crochet is the French diminutive of croc, hook. The first published instructions under that name appeared in 1823, in the Dutch magazine Penélopé, and the technique spread across Europe during the 19th century. In Ireland, during the Great Famine from 1845 to 1849, crochet lace was taught so that many families could earn some money, and so-called Irish lace became famous. It is hard not to be moved by that: a small hook holding whole households together.

In Portugal, crochet found its place mostly indoors. Doilies, bedspreads, collars, tray cloths and trousseau lace were made in the evenings, often in white or unbleached cotton thread, and kept as heirlooms. It should not be confused with bobbin lace from Vila do Conde or Peniche, made with wooden bobbins on a pillow: that is another technique, with another history. We write about other crafts that endure in Rare crafts in Portugal: the last masters.

Alice Aranha and crochet beyond the doily

Alice Aranha works in Caldas da Rainha and takes crochet into jewellery and accessories. Each piece starts from an image: a flower, a season, a card. What I admire in her is the nerve to take a technique so tied to the past and make it feel new without disrespecting it. The Carnation Earrings are red carnations in silk and cotton with a silver hook; in the story we tell about them, Alice goes out looking for exactly the right red. The Empress Scarf, handmade in silk and linen, is born from the Empress card of the tarot. And the Daffodil Earrings, in golden linen threads, start from the daffodil, one of the first flowers to open after winter. I cannot quite explain why, but it is my favourite of her pieces.

How to choose and care for crochet pieces

Start with the material. Linen and cotton are cool and firm, silk adds sheen and drape, wool keeps you warm. Then look at the tension: stitches should be of similar size, with no loose and tight areas mixed together. Check the finishing, with yarn ends hidden on the back and no knots on show, and, on earrings, what the hook is made of. Finally, ask who made it. A designer piece has a name and a place. If nobody can tell you, be wary.

For care, scarves and gloves are washed by hand in cold water with mild soap; do not wring them, press the piece inside a towel instead. Dry them flat on another towel, shaped by hand, because hanging stretches the stitches. Earrings are best kept dry: put on perfume and creams first and store them separately, in a box or pouch, so the threads do not snag. Wool pieces are stored folded, somewhere dry, with lavender or cedar against moths. If you like gloves, we have a guide in Fingerless gloves: how to wear them.

For the cold months, the Winter Crochet Pack brings together Alice Aranha's Winter Scarf and Daffodil Earrings. More ideas in Handmade Portuguese Christmas gifts.

Frequently asked questions

What is crochet?

A technique for making fabric or lace with a single hooked needle, pulling the yarn through one loop at a time.

What is the difference between crochet and knitting?

Crochet uses one hook and usually one active loop at a time. Knitting uses two needles and keeps a whole row of stitches waiting.

Where does the word crochet come from?

From French: crochet is the diminutive of croc, meaning hook. The first published instructions under that name date from 1823.

How do you wash a crochet piece?

By hand, in cold water with mild soap, without wringing. It should dry flat on a towel so it keeps its shape.

Can crochet earrings get wet?

Best avoided. Apply perfume and creams beforehand and store the earrings in a separate box or pouch.

Who makes Ra-Ro's crochet pieces?

Alice Aranha, a maker from Caldas da Rainha who crochets earrings, scarves and gloves by hand.