Gondar black clay: what soenga firing is and how to season a clay pot

By Luís Serra, co-founder of Ra-Ro · View profile

About a 5 minute read

Black clay is pottery fired in a soenga, a fire built in a pit in the ground where flames and smoke surround the pieces and turn them black all the way through. It is not paint or glaze: the colour comes from the fire itself. In Gondar, in the municipality of Amarante in northern Portugal, César Teixeira and his son João are among the last potters still firing in a soenga. Ra-Ro's black clay, from the casserole to the cooking pot, is theirs.

Black clay at a glance

• What it is: clay pottery darkened by smoke during firing.
• How it is made: shaped by hand on a low wheel and fired in a soenga, outdoors.
• Where: Gondar (Amarante) and Bisalhães (Vila Real) are the best-known centres.
• What it is for: cooking, serving, storing and decoration.
• At Ra-Ro: pieces by César Teixeira from 23.30 to 101.30 euros.

What soenga firing is

In ordinary pottery, pieces are fired in a closed kiln and come out brick-red. In a soenga, they are stacked in a pit, covered with wood and fire and, at the end, smothered with earth and pine needles. Without air, the smoke enters the clay and leaves it black and satin-smooth. It is a slow, open-air process that depends on the potter's experience: weather, wind and wood change every firing.

Bisalhães black pottery, from Vila Real, was inscribed by UNESCO in 2016 on the list of intangible heritage in need of urgent safeguarding, a sign of how endangered the craft is, in Gondar too.

Who makes Ra-Ro's black clay

César Teixeira works with his son João in Gondar. They shape every piece on a low wheel and fire it in a soenga, as the village has done for generations. Each piece varies slightly in colour and shape, because no two firings are alike.

Black clay pieces

• Black Clay Casserole, 56.20 euros: for rice, stews and oven roasts.
• Black Clay Cooking Pot, 46.20 euros: for bean stews, soups and slow cooking.
• Black Clay Bowl (Alguidar), 36.20 euros: for seasoning, marinating and serving.
• Chestnut Roaster, 101.30 euros: the classic of the autumn chestnut feast.
• Chocolate Pot, 23.30 euros, plus the Cup and Water Jar for the table.

How to season a clay casserole or pot

A new clay piece should be seasoned before its first use. This is the traditional way:

1. Soak the piece in cold water for a few hours.
2. Let it dry and rub the inside with a garlic clove or a little olive oil.
3. Fill it with water, or water with a little milk, and bring it slowly to a gentle boil over very low heat.
4. Let it cool in the pot, rinse with water only and air dry.

Everyday care

• Always heat gradually and avoid thermal shock, such as putting a cold pot on high heat or wetting it while hot.
• On a gas hob, use a heat diffuser.
• Wash by hand, with little or no detergent, never in the dishwasher.
• Store it completely dry.

For more ideas, read how to roast chestnuts at home and our article on the clay alguidar.

Frequently asked questions

What is black clay pottery?

Pottery fired outdoors in a soenga, where smoke enters the clay and turns it black. The colour comes from the fire, not from paint.

What is a soenga?

A traditional firing in a pit in the ground. The pieces are covered with wood and, at the end, smothered with earth and pine needles so the smoke darkens them.

Can you cook in black clay?

Yes. Gondar casseroles and pots are made for cooking, as long as they are seasoned first and heated gradually.

How do you season a clay pot?

Soak it in water, rub it with garlic or olive oil and bring water to a slow boil in it over low heat, letting it cool in the pot.

Is a clay pot dishwasher safe?

No. Wash it by hand with water or very little detergent and dry it well.

Who makes Ra-Ro's black clay?

César Teixeira and his son João, in Gondar, in the municipality of Amarante, Portugal.