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Mel amargo (bitter honey) is the popular name for strawberry tree honey, made by bees from the flowers of the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), which bloom in autumn and winter. It seems sweet at first but quickly reveals an intense bitterness, with notes reminiscent of coffee and cocoa. It is one of the rarest honeys in Portugal.
Origin and history
Strawberry tree honey is a floral honey from Mediterranean regions rich in strawberry trees. Portugal and Sardinia are among the main producers. Because it is bitter, it has always been a niche honey, loved by those who seek strong, not very sweet flavours.
In the Algarve hills, where the strawberry tree is abundant, bitter honey sits alongside the plant’s other great tradition, medronho brandy.
How it is made
Unlike most honeys, which are born in spring, bitter honey is made when almost all other flowers have gone. In São Marcos da Serra, the strawberry tree flowers from October to January, and the bees fly out in the cold to gather the nectar. It is therefore a honey from the depths of winter, produced in small quantities.
Once extracted, the honey is liquid and amber. It crystallises finely and quickly, taking on a creamy texture and hazel to brownish tones, sometimes with greyish or greenish glints.
Where it comes from
Bitter honey comes from strawberry tree areas, mainly the hills of the Algarve and Alentejo. The one sold by Ra-Ro is from São Marcos da Serra, in the municipality of Silves, and comes through Regionalarte, the Lima family’s house, which tends wild strawberry trees by the Odelouca river.
How to recognise and use it
Its aromas are very strong, intense and pungent. On the palate it starts sweet and turns into a complex bitterness, reminiscent of coffee grounds, cocoa or bitter roots. It pairs well with aged cheeses, fresh curd cheese, plain yogurt or dark chocolate. Store it somewhere dry and cool, tightly closed. Crystallisation is natural and does not affect quality.
Where to buy
At Ra-Ro you can buy Mel Amargo from São Marcos da Serra. The same strawberry tree gives Medronho Brandy, and if you like honey drinks see also the Traditional Mead.
Frequently asked questions
What is mel amargo?
It is strawberry tree honey, made by bees from the nectar of strawberry tree flowers in autumn and winter. It starts sweet and turns bitter, with notes of coffee.
Why is strawberry tree honey bitter?
The bitterness is characteristic of the nectar of strawberry tree flowers. It gives the honey a taste that moves from sweet to notes of coffee, cocoa and bitter roots.
Where can I buy bitter honey?
From beekeepers in the hills of the Algarve and Alentejo or online at Ra-Ro, which sells Mel Amargo from São Marcos da Serra.
