Wine of the Dead (Vinho dos Mortos): what it is, the Boticas story and how to serve it

By Luís Serra, co-founder of Ra-Ro · View profile

About a 4 minute read

Vinho dos Mortos, the Wine of the Dead, is a wine from Boticas in Trás-os-Montes, northern Portugal, that spends months buried underground before it is drunk. The tradition began in 1809, during the second French invasion, when villagers buried their bottles to hide them from the troops. When they dug them up, they found a different wine: light, low in alcohol and gently sparkling. The name comes from there: the wine had been "buried like the dead".

Wine of the Dead at a glance

• What it is: a wine from Boticas aged buried in granite soil.
• Origin: 1809, the second French invasion, in the Barroso region.
• Style: light, low in alcohol, with a subtle natural sparkle.
• Production: very small, in numbered bottles.
• At Ra-Ro: Wine of the Dead, 24.40 euros.

The story: the wine that hid from Napoleon

In 1809, Marshal Soult's French troops entered Portugal from the north, in the second of three Napoleonic invasions. When they reached the Barroso, the people of Boticas did what many villages did with their most precious goods: they hid them. The wine was buried in pits under cellars and yards.

Once the danger had passed, the bottles were dug up. The wine had changed: it was lighter and slightly fizzy. Instead of being lost, it became famous. The practice continued and Boticas turned the episode into a tradition it still celebrates.

Why the wine changes underground

Under the granite soil, the bottles stay in the dark, free of vibration and at an almost constant temperature all year round. In these conditions the wine keeps evolving slowly in the bottle, which gives it the lightness and gentle sparkle that set it apart. Every vintage is different, because it depends on the soil, the time underground and the year itself.

How it tastes and how to serve it

• Temperature: chilled, like a light wine, between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius.
• Glass: a white wine or sparkling wine glass, to keep the bubbles.
• Food: the cooking of the Barroso, such as smoked sausages, cozido stew and local cheeses, as well as small plates and fish.
• Once opened: drink it the same day, like any naturally sparkling wine.

A wine for All Saints' Day

With its name and its story, Wine of the Dead has become a gift with a built-in story in early November, between All Saints' Day, All Souls' Day and the St Martin's magusto. It sits well next to chestnuts roasted in a clay roaster.

For more gift ideas with a story, see our guide to Portuguese handmade gifts by price.

Frequently asked questions

What is Wine of the Dead?

Vinho dos Mortos is a wine from Boticas, in Trás-os-Montes, Portugal, aged buried in granite soil. It becomes light, low in alcohol and gently sparkling.

Why is it called Wine of the Dead?

Because in 1809 the people of Boticas buried their wine to hide it from French troops. The wine was buried like the dead and kept the name.

Where is Wine of the Dead made?

In Boticas, in the Barroso region of the Vila Real district, Trás-os-Montes, northern Portugal.

How do you serve Wine of the Dead?

Chilled, between 8 and 12 degrees Celsius, in a white or sparkling wine glass. Once opened, drink it the same day.

What food goes with it?

The cooking of the Barroso, such as smoked sausages, stews and cheeses, as well as small plates and fish.

Where can I buy Wine of the Dead?

At Ra-Ro, in numbered bottles from a very small production, shipped to Portugal, Europe, the USA, Canada and Brazil.