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By Sérgio Carvalho, co-founder of Ra-Ro · View profile
About a 3-minute read
There are utensils that are, at the same time, tool and monument. The copper cataplana is one of them. Closed, it looks like a shell of beaten metal; open, it is the memory of an entire kitchen, that of the Algarve, where the sea and the hills meet in a single pan. The one that Ra-Ro brings together is made by hand by Nuno Palma, at the Da Palma workshop, in Cachopo.
What is a cataplana?
The cataplana is a pan made of two equal halves, joined by a hinge and closed with side clasps. When sealed, it creates a steam chamber that cooks the food in its own juices, without drying it out. It is the utensil of clams, fish and shellfish stews, dishes that need enveloping heat and time.
How is hammered copper worked?
Copper does not shape itself. In Cachopo, Nuno Palma works the sheet with a hammer, sheet by sheet, in a traditional coppersmithing technique that is now almost never practised. Every hammer mark is a decision, and it is that irregular surface that gives the piece the strength and character a machine cannot reproduce. It is slow work, of the bench and of patience.
Why copper?
Copper is one of the best known conductors of heat. It distributes temperature evenly and reacts quickly, which gives the cooking a control that other metals do not allow. It is no accident that copper coppersmithing has accompanied the kitchen for centuries.
Why is it a piece at risk?
The copper cataplana takes far longer to make than the aluminium or stainless steel versions. That is why it is expensive, it is rare and it is increasingly hard to find, as the last coppersmiths retire.
How to use and care for it?
Before first use, wash it well and check the interior. Food-grade copper is generally tinned on the inside, so scratching should be avoided. Clean by hand, without metal scourers, and dry well to preserve the shine. Over time, the exterior develops a patina that is part of the life of the piece.
Frequently asked questions
What is a cataplana?
A traditional kitchen utensil from the Algarve, two copper shells that close hermetically to steam-cook under pressure. It allows fish, shellfish and meats to be cooked in their own juices, keeping their aromas and nutrients.
Is this cataplana for cooking or decorative?
It is functional. Copper hammered by hand by Nuno Palma (Da Palma), in Loulé. You can cook with it on a gas, electric or induction hob with an adapter. Copper is an excellent thermal conductor and cooks evenly.
How to prepare the cataplana before first use?
Wash with hot water and a neutral detergent. Dry well. Rub the interior with cut onion to neutralise any metallic taste. Boil water for 10 minutes. It is then ready to use.
Does copper need special care?
Yes. Clean after each use with a damp cloth. To restore the shine, use a mixture of lemon and coarse salt or a product made specifically for copper. Do not use a dishwasher or abrasive scourers.
